Holy Crap. I love to surf.
Yup. I’m claiming that 2 ft wave as if I just exited a barrel. But who cares right? Cause surfing is about having fun. And F%$k. It is SO fun. It’s taking over my every free thought. I just want to get better. Try for bigger waves, get stronger, learn to carve, cut back, and eventually get that barrel.
I’m a solid 18 months into my surfing journey. Since I started, I moved from NYC to Los Angeles, Shaped a Surf Board and now surf from 3 to 4 times a week. I started this blog about 3 months in and now I think I’m ready to start chronicling my progress.
This morning I joined a nice group of surf buddies at Sunset Blvd and the PCH and from 6 AM - 8 AM. I clocked a good 100 minutes in the water. Caught about 8 waves and really rode about 3 of those. There’s swell from a storm last week so sets are still coming in 4 to 6 feet but Sunset is SO crumbly the size doesn’t really count.
Happy that I pushed myself but felt a little weak and that I could have gone for some of the bigger waves. I’m off on some work travel so I’m not back to LA till Monday night. I plan to surf Tuesday morning. In the mean time, I’m going to try this WaveShape program to work on getting stronger. (I also want to be bikini ready for the fast approaching summer.)
Any advice from my surfing friends on tips to go from adv. beginner to intermediate?